Scientists Reproduce Legendary Golden Textile Using Clam Waste
Sea Silk Fabric — once believed to inspire the Greek legend of the Golden Fleece — has been recreated by scientists using discarded clam fibers, offering a sustainable path to revive this luxurious and endangered textile tradition. Known for its shimmering, golden luster, sea silk was historically spun from the beardlike tufts of the giant clam Pinna nobilis, native to the Mediterranean. But the species’ endangered status made it nearly impossible to continue the craft.
A New Source of Golden Sea Silk
Researchers from Pohang University of Science and Technology in South Korea have successfully reproduced sea silk fabric using byssus threads from Atrina pectinata, a related clam species farmed extensively for food. Unlike P. nobilis, A. pectinata is abundant and its fibers are usually discarded as waste — an untapped resource for sustainable luxury textiles.
Traditional Sea Silk Weaving Process
Sea silk comes from byssus threads — fine, hairlike fibers that anchor clams to rocks and seaweed. The traditional process involves careful cleaning in seawater, combing for shine, spinning on wooden spindles, soaking in lemon juice to unlock the golden hue, and drying before weaving. The resulting golden sea silk is incredibly light, described as “fine as children’s hair.”
Science Behind the Golden Hue
Researchers found that the golden shimmer of sea silk fabric comes from unique spherical proteins called photonins, arranged into nanofibrils. This structure reflects light like butterfly wings, and when iron ions are removed during the lemon bath, the brilliant gold emerges — a color that can last over 1,000 years without fading.
Sustainable Luxury and Future Applications
The study’s findings could revive sea silk fabric production while paving the way for eco-friendly golden pigments in textiles and cosmetics. As lead scientist Dong Soo Hwang notes, “This could open a new branch of sustainable luxury.” With luxury brands already seeking innovative, ethical materials, sea silk may soon return from legend to runway.
